Run string lines around the perimeter of the pool for height level and straightness – allow for approximately 20mm mortar bed.

The fiberglass/concrete “beam” needs to be painted with a watery mix of a Acrylic based bonding agent such as Raybond.

For application to fiberglass pools, apply 3 beads of Emerseal PU 40 (manufactured by Parchem). Do not apply mortar mix to the fiberglass. Mortar mix needs to be applied to the concrete beam only.

Mix 3 parts plasterers sand (1/2 red, 1/2 yellow) to 1 part Brighton Lite cement and 1 part pavlock sand mix with clean water to a cake mixture consistency.  Add a liquid “waterproofer” according to manufacturers instructions then bed onto the pool beam.

Paint the bonding agent onto the base of the pool coping piece.

Sprinkle 50:50 (in powder form) of Chemgrip Super (flexible pool tile adhesive with waterproofing qualities): and Brighton Lite Cement on to the bed.

Splash two handfuls of water onto the powdered mortar bed.

Place the pool coping down evenly, then tap level. 30mm overhang is standard.

The mortar will squash out and some will fall into the pool.

The “holes” between the pool and coping need to be filled. Rub your thumb along the join to ensure there are no “holes”.

Continually wipe clean with a sponge. Do not wipe the mortar as you will wash the cement away from the sand.

Fill the join between the pool copers with a wide joint of flexible grout.

Flush joins are recommended (not grooved).

Every 3 rd or 4 th join (between the pool coping pieces) should be prepared with Sikaflex Pro or Ardex SE Silicon. This allows for movement and flexes.

A flexible joint needs to be applied parallel to the pool coping if a solid structure is in close proximity eg a wall or house. This will prevent cracking or movement of the pool coping.